Dryer Not Heating

The short answer: the drum is turning, so the problem is in the heating part. On electric dryers that’s usually the heating element. On gas dryers it’s usually the igniter.

A clogged vent is often the real cause behind a blown fuse, so it’s worth checking first.

What usually causes it

• Burned-out heating element (electric). The coil that makes the heat can break or burn through with age. The drum still turns, but the air stays cold.
• Blown thermal fuse. A safety fuse that cuts the heat when the dryer overheats. It usually blows because the vent is clogged.
• Failed igniter or gas valve coil (gas). The igniter glows to light the gas. When it weakens, the burner never lights.
• Clogged vent. Lint in the duct traps heat and trips safety cutoffs, so clothes take several cycles to dry.
• Faulty cycling thermostat. It can stop the heat early or keep it from turning on.

What you can check yourself

• Clean the lint trap and the vent. Unplug the dryer, pull it out and clear any lint, crush or kink in the duct behind it.
• Check the breaker (electric dryers). Flip the double breaker fully off and on, since half of it can trip.
• Check the settings. Air-fluff or a very low heat setting tumbles without heating.
• Gas dryers: make sure the gas valve behind the dryer is open. If you smell gas, leave the house and call your gas utility.

How to prevent it

• Clean the lint screen after every load.
• Have the vent duct cleaned out about once a year, more often if you do a lot of laundry.
• Use smooth metal duct, and keep the dryer pushed back without crushing it.

When to call a technician

Call us if:

• The vent is clear and the breaker is on, but there’s still no heat
• A thermal fuse has blown more than once
• You smell gas or burning

These repairs involve live voltage, gas or hidden parts, so we recommend leaving them to a professional.

Service call: $89, waived when you go ahead with the repair. Warranty: 90 days on every repair.